Supplies:

  1. 3 sheets of correlated plastic
  2. Sheet of closed cell foam ( camp mat)
  3. 5/8 pipe insulation 3 sections
  4. Duct tape ( 3m brand is light and has great adhesion. Gorrilla is thick and durable but heavy and not as sticky.
  5. Contact adhesive ( 3m , locktite , or DAP . Spray type is good for this)
  6. Spray on plastidip
  7. Goop or another strong adhesive
  8. Sturdy trowel or other aluminum door handle
  9. Nuts bolts and fender washers
  10. Belt , leather strapping, or canvas strapping
  11. Ruler - long metal and tape measer
  12. Razor blades
  13. Sturdy scissors
  14. Table Saw - optional
  15. Drill
  16. Disc/belt sander table mounted type - optional


There are several ways to make shields.

This walk through will focus on a standard strap and handle shield but the methodology is perfectly valid of a single point of contact punch shield variation. When making a punch shield try to stay to a circular form as tear drop and coffin shapes can create undue twisting force on your arm when blocking.

To start I used one of the basic shield dimensions in the Nero rule book and adapted it slightly. I generally prefer a more tear drop shield that provided decent shoulder coverage and measures the max rules allowed length of 36 inches vertically . I orient my strap and handle so my arm is close to vertical so that both the bicep and shoulder muscles are used for blocking motions. Oriented horizontally you tend to only use the shoulder muscles, which results in slower movement and quicker fatigue.

I created a plywood shield blank first. This optional, but it is very useful for making more shields quickly.

First step is to draw out and cut one sheet.

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Then turn the next sheet 90 degrees so the corrogation lines are perpendicular and cut the next layer.

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I recommend yet a third layer , again, oriented perpendicular to the last. You will most likely have to make some layers from multiple pieces. That's totally fine. In the next phase we are going to fuse them all together.

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Spray two surfaces and follow the directions on how long to let them dry before they are ready for adhesion. This is an instant and permanent bond, so be very very careful laying it down. Repeat for the last layer

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An alternate method, that I use now, is to laminate all three layers together and then cut them on a table saw.

A bench sander really helps clean up the edges.

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Optional, a layer of closed cell foam can be adhered to the front.

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Now lets add some hardware

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And now some edge foam. (The 1/2 inch stuff at home depot is too thin and will earn you a fail at weapons check)
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If your foam is cut to fit well, the duct tape and plastidip are all you need to keep it firmly in place. I used 6 inch wide gorrilla tape.20160704_194614531_iOS.jpg

Use some locktite on the threads.


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20160704_204514384_iOS.jpgSome of you may be saying, Plastidip will peel off the tape...and yes, it sure will.